Classic styles such as Crombies, military coats, belted designs and shawl collars have endured for decades. Rather than relying on conspicuous decoration, the article argues that proportion, fabric, construction and styling can give these familiar shapes a more distinctive look.

1. Look for a purposeful change in proportion

A single exaggerated feature can alter the effect of a traditional coat. Strong shoulders can sharpen a loose, fluid shape, while an extra-long hem may create impact on a petite frame. Cropped jackets with textured, wide or contrasting sleeves can work in the same way. The emphasis should be on details integral to the cut rather than fringes or bold patterns that may soon feel overwhelming. The article notes that a parka’s proportions and colour can determine whether it looks dowdy or confident.

Lisa wears a Wiggy Kit wool houndstooth coat with Reiss top, Me+Em trousers, Bobbies boots, Strathberry bag and Persol sunglasses
 

One example is a double-faced wool and cashmere-blend coat by Ulla Johnson, priced at £1,135.

Ulla Johnson double-faced wool and cashmere-blend coat
 

2. Consider sheen beyond leather

Satin is presented as an alternative for those seeking surface shine without choosing leather. Some contemporary satin fabrics have a functional, technical quality and may contain at least 50% polyester. A good-quality polyester satin can add gloss and structure to a coat or bomber jacket, and can be machine-washed rather than dry-cleaned.

The Fold satin coat
 

While it is not suggested for snowstorms, a satin coat can be worn over jeans and a chunky jumper or paired with a party dress. The Fold’s satin coat is listed at £695.

Sézane wool coat
 

3. Choose sculptural construction

Architectural features can make outerwear more visually engaging without changing its practical purpose. These may include a funnel collar that frames the back of the head, a stand-away rolled neckline, curved sleeves, an unusual fastening or a subtly asymmetric front. The article compares the funnel-collar effect to Phoebe Philo’s aesthetic and the stand-away neckline to styles associated with Audrey Hepburn in the 1960s.

Lisa wears an Essentiel Antwerp faux-fur-collar jacket with Albaray trousers, Dear Frances boots and Persol sunglasses
 

A wool coat by Sézane is priced at £410.

Lisa wears a Charlotte Simone cotton coat with lambswool trim, Reiss top, Me+Em trousers, Bobbies boots, DeMellier bag and Persol sunglasses
 

4. Select prints with staying power

Animal motifs, including big-cat, giraffe and deer patterns, along with checks, are described as recurring options that can remain wearable over time. The article recommends matching the print’s background colour to the wearer’s palette and selecting a scale that works with their frame.

Mango pearl brooch and Wyse shearling collar
 

Jaeger has introduced its first signature check at M&S. The article also highlights a spring-weight tiger-print coat with a Mongolian collar from independent British label Charlotte Simone. The brand uses a minimal-waste business model, releases two small-run collections a year in September and November, and does not restock styles once they have sold out, although animal prints remain part of its offering.

Stine Goya padded jacket with removable ribbed collar
 

The featured Charlotte Simone cotton coat with lambswool trim costs £325. The full look includes a £170 Reiss brushed-cashmere top, £225 Me+Em pleated wide-leg trousers, £260 Bobbies leather boots, a £395 DeMellier suede bag and £322 Persol polarized sunglasses.

Jaeger wool coat, Hayley Menzies satin and faux-fur coat, Aligne wrap coat and Reformation satin coat
 

5. Use restraint, then personalise

A memorable coat need not have decorative buttons, excessive pockets or elaborate seams. A clean, firmly defined shape or an icy colour can be enough. Instead of paying more for built-in embellishment, the article suggests adding removable accessories, such as brooches arranged along a lapel or sleeve, a detachable sheepskin collar, or an accessory in a strong contrasting colour.

A Mango pearl brooch costs £15.99, while a Wyse shearling collar is listed at £95.

6. Add one unexpected reference

Contrasting design languages can lend a coat more personality. The examples offered include technical material shaped into a luxurious silhouette, a utilitarian drawcord on an otherwise refined design, nylon outerwear in a sophisticated colour, or military influences softened through draping.

Stine Goya’s padded jacket with a removable ribbed collar costs £390.

7. Style formal and casual pieces together

The final suggestion is to introduce contrast through styling. A substantial wool coat or silky jacket can be worn with battered jeans; a practical parka can be put over a silk skirt; and a formal coat can be teamed with flat shoes. These combinations can prevent an outfit from looking too calculated.

Other pieces highlighted include a £325 Jaeger pure-wool checked coat, a £590 Hayley Menzies satin and faux-fur coat, a £295 Aligne wrap coat and a £428 Reformation satin coat.

The opening look features a £695 Wiggy Kit wool houndstooth coat, with the Reiss top, Me+Em trousers, Bobbies boots, a £450 Strathberry grain-leather bag and Persol sunglasses. A further look includes a £390 Essentiel Antwerp faux-fur-collar jacket, £89 Albaray flannel trousers, £550 Dear Frances leather boots and Persol sunglasses.

Photography: Sarah Brick. Hair and make-up: Oonagh Connor. Styling: Sophie Tobin. Stylist’s assistant: Hansveni Dave.